Plaza de Armas
This
pleasant square is in the same position as the main square of
Inca Cusco, although it is only half the size, with the original
square including what is now Plaza Regocijo. The Plaza de Armas
is surrounded by many attractive colonial buildings, where there
are now bars, restaurants and shops. However, it is the Cathedral
and the Iglesia de La Compañía, which are the highlights
of the square. Some Inca walls remain, notably those of the palace
of Pachacutec which were found in the Roma restaurant on the plaza's
western corner. The quiet pedestrian alleyway of Loreto, both
sides of which have Inca walls, is a pleasant means of access
to the plaza.
The Cathedral
It
is said to be built on the site of the Inca Viracocha’s
palace. It is a fine church with a good collection of religious
paintings, and it is worth taking a guided tour. The Cathedral
is included in city tours offered by most travel agencies, which
also include the four nearby ruins and the temple of Qorikancha.
The Cathedral was under restoration from 1997 to 2002. Among the
highlights in the Cathedral are the altar used in the procession
of Corpus Christi, with an image of St James on a horse stamping
on a sinner with remarkably Indian features. The base of the altar
weighs 2 ½ tonnes, and is solid silver. The main altar
in the Cathedral is highly baroque and is also solid silver, weighing
3 tonnes. One of the most famous images in the Cathedral is that
of the Señor de los Temblores (Lord of the earthquakes).
This image of Christ was said to have calmed the major earthquake
of 1650, and every Easter Monday it is paraded through the streets
of the city. The Señor de Los Temblores has dark skin,
which many claim was to help the indigenous population identify
with the Catholic faith. However, another version is that the
Christ was originally white, but candle smoke has tainted the
wood.
Inca ruins at Coricancha
The
most interesting, and important, building in Cusco is the colonial
monastery of Santo Domingo, built on the foundations of Qorikancha
(courtyard of gold), the most important religious site in the
Inca Empire. Although the colonial monastery and church are interesting,
it is the remains of the Inca buildings that are the true attraction.
This was the location of the most important temples in all of
the Inca Empire, which included the Temple of the Sun, Temple
of the Moon, Temple of Thunder and Lightening, Temple of the Rainbow
and temples to various stars. Originally, the temples were covered
in gold and silver, and there were many jewels throughout the
buildings. There was an enormous gold disc, representing the sun,
which was used to reflect the rays of the sun into the Temple
of the Sun. This must have been an incredible sight, especially
as the sun reflected off all the golden surfaces that previously
covered the walls. Most of the gold and silver objects were removed
from the temples when the Spanish were collecting the ransom for
Atahuallpa’s release, and were later melted down, destroying
the amazing pieces forever. However, it is said that the Incas
in Cusco did not hand over the giant sun disk, which is to this
day hidden away somewhere in Peru. In addition to all the temples,
there was a ceremonial garden by Qorikancha. It is said that this
contained representations of crops in gold and silver. Today,
a silver cob of corn can be seen in the nearby museum.
Archaeological Museum
The
Museum contains a fine archaeological collection from all over
Peru. It is housed in the Admiral’s Palace, although the
building has been expanded with a modern section. The museum has
a very good section on the pre-Inca cultures in the Lake Titicaca
and Cusco areas, and has some exquisite Wari turquoise mini-sculptures
found at Pikillaqta. The section on the Inca culture is very good,
and there are some wonderful photos of Machu Picchu when it wasfirst
rediscovered. The ceramics collection is good, as are the bone
sculptures, and there are a few textiles, although not in great
condition. There is also a post-conquest section with some fine
colonial furniture.
AROUND CUSCO
Ollantaytambo
Ollantaytambo is an attractive
town at the far end of the Sacred Valley. The paved road ends
here, although it is possible to continue down an unpaved road
for a few kilometres. The road to Quillabamba also passes through
here. The train to Machu Picchu passes through Ollantaytambo,
and all trains stop here. The modern town is built on the base
of the old Inca town, and the streets and blocks of the town are
the same as those of the original Inca town. The town has given
itself the title ‘the living Inca town’, and it almost
certainly contains the best examples of Inca buildings still in
use, although they have been modified somewhat. The first metre
or more of the walls of most of the houses behind the Plaza are
original Inca walls, and many of the doorframes are original Inca
doorframes. Wandering around this part of the town gives the best
example of what an Inca town must really have been like.
Macchu Picchu
This
is undoubtedly the best known and most spectacular archaeological
site on the continent. During the busy, dry-season months of June
to September, up to 1000 people a day come to visit the Lost City
of the Incas, as Machu Picchu is popularly known. Despite this
huge tourist influx, the site manages to retain its air of grandeur
and mystery and is considered a must for all visitors to Peru.
The site is open daily from 7.30 am to 5 pm, so watching dawn
or dusk in Machu Picchu is difficult unless you arrive via the
Inca Trail and camp at Intipunku. Because the site is surrounded
high mountains, you can see sunrise and sunset over the ruins
during visiting hours, though its already broad daylight when
the sun comes up over the surrounding mountains. The changes in
color and light early and late in the day are very beautiful.
The Inca Trail
This
is the best known and most popular hike on the continent and is
walked by thousands of people every year. The Inca Trail itself
climbs steeply up along the south bank of the Llullucha River.
After a walk of about 30 minutes, the river forks. Continue up
the left fork for about 500 meters, then cross the river on a
log bridge. There are several flat campsites on both sides of
the bridge. The area is known as 'three
white stones'. This site is usually
the first camp for most people who start from Km88 in the morning.
If you arrive without a previously organized truck, there are
several options. You can hike with what you can carry on your
back or you can hire porters, guides and cooks from an adventure
travel agency in Cusco. Many budget travelers hire just one porter
to carry a pack and this is inexpensive. You should carry a stove
(wood is scarce), a sleeping pad and warm bag, and a tent or other
protection from the rain. All this equipment can be rented inexpensively
in Cusco. Also bring insect repellent, sun block lotion, water
purification tablets or iodine and basic first-aid supplies. Although
the total distance is only 33 km, there are three high passes
to be crossed, one of which reaches a height of 4200 meters The
trail is often steep, so don't be lulled into a false sense of
security by the relatively short distance. Hike prepared.
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