| La Sebastiana
 La
Sebastiana is one of poet Pablo Neruda's three charming homes
that have since been converted into museums honoring the distinguished
Nobel Laureate's work and life. Neruda usually spent New Year's
here for the spectacular firework display he was able to view
from the home. La Sebastiana is exceptionally enjoyable because
the staff allow visitors to wander about freely without an accompanying
guide.
There are self-guiding information sheets in
a variety of languages that explain the significance of important
documents and items on display, as well as Neruda's whimsical
collection of eccentric knickknacks culled from his journeys through
the Americas and abroad. Neruda called himself an "estuary
sailor"--although terrified of sailing, he nevertheless was
fascinated by the sea, and he fashioned his homes to resemble
boats, complete with porthole windows. A cultural center has been
built below the house, with a gallery and a gift shop. Don't miss
this fascinating attraction.
The walk from Plaza Victoria is a hike, and you
might want to take a taxi. From Plaza Ecuador there's a bus, Verde
"D." Or you might opt to take La Cintura, or "The
Belt," a bus route that takes riders up and down and around
the snaking streets of Valparaíso and eventually stops
a block or so from Neruda's house (be sure to tell the driver
that's your final destination because the bus continues on). The
bus leaves from Plaza Echaurren near the Customs House (La Aduana),
and is called Bus Verde "O."
Museo Naval y Marítimo
 This
fascinating museum merits a visit even if you do not particularly
fancy naval and maritime-related artifacts and memorabilia. The
museum is smartly designed and divided into four salons: the War
of Independence, the War against the Peru-Bolivia Confederation,
the War against Spain, and the War of the Pacific. Each salon
holds interesting artifacts, such as antique documents, medals,
uniforms, and war trophies. Of special note is the Arturo Prat
room with artifacts salvaged from the Esmeralda, including a barnacle-covered
clock registering the moment the ship was sunk during the War
of the Pacific.
Palacio Lyon
 This
grand, 50-room palace was built as a residence in 1881, but today
houses both the Museo de Historia Natural and the Galería
Municipal de Arte de Valparaíso. The natural history museum
is a dusty, oddball collection of stuffed and mounted birds and
animals mixed in with odd artifacts that include a two-headed
baby marinating in a bottle of formaldehyde. Visitors will get
the feeling that the museum means well, but it obviously suffers
from a lack of funds. The art gallery holds changing exhibits
inside the palace's wonderfully spacious basement.
Museo del Mar Lord Thomas
Cochrane
High atop Cerro Cordillera sits Lord Cochrane's
Museum of the Sea inside the old residence of Juan Mouat, who
built the house in 1841 in colonial style with all the trimmings,
including its own observatory. Now it houses a display of model
ships once owned by Lord Cochrane. If the theme doesn't interest
you, the dramatic view will. |
