|  Valparaiso
is Chile's second city and its main port. It perfectly captures
the geography of the country, a narrow city with hills to one
side and water to the other. Valparaiso's maze of cobbled paths
are perfect for exploring, and the city is known for its fine
arts and excellent maritime museums. The most interesting part
of Valparaiso is the old section, where you will find colonial
buildings, churches and museums.
The old-seaport atmosphere of Valparaiso is best
appreciated by wandering around for an hour or two in some of
the old neighborhoods. The steep and winding alleys give the town
a nice atmosphere.
 Just
north of Valparaiso is Viña del Mar, Chile's top beach
resort. Known as the 'Garden City' due to its huge botanical garden
and countless palm and banana trees fringing the beaches, Viña
del Mar is a relaxing and romantic place to stay. More stunning
beaches can be found around the colonial city of La Serena, which
is a good place to stay if you would like to make day trips to
nearby Chilean villages and vineyards.
Tourist Offices
There are several tourist offices in Valparaíso;
the best is at Muelle Prat (tel. 32/236322), open Monday to Sunday
10am to 6pm. There's also an information kiosk at the bus station
open Monday to Sunday 8:30am to 5:30pm. Panoramic city tours in
minivans are offered by Meneses y Díaz, which leave from
the visitor's center daily at 11am (tel. 32/594677). The cost
is $5; drivers do not speak English, but the twisting streets
and dramatic views seen along the way say it all.
Getting there
By Bus--Frequent, comfortable buses
leave the Terminal Alameda in Santiago at Alameda O'Higgins 3712
(1 block from Terminal Santiago; Metro: University de Santiago),
about every 15 minutes. Tur Bus and Pullman offer service to and
from Valparaíso, with fares running about $4 one-way. In
Valparaíso you'll disembark at the terminal at Avenida
Pedro Montt; taxis are available and a good idea at night. Consider
buying a round-trip ticket if you plan to travel on weekends or
holidays.
By Car--To get to Valparaíso
from Santiago, take Alameda O'Higgins west until it changes into
Ruta Nacional 68, 6 miles (10km) from the coast, and follow the
signs to Valparaíso. There is one tollbooth ($2.50) along
the way. Valparaíso is 71 miles (115km) northwest of Santiago.
Parking can be arranged at most hotels and there's a parking garage
on Errázuriz Street, across from the Plaza Sotomayor.
 Walking
is really the only way to see Valparaíso, as parking is
limited and most attractions lie within a compact area. To get
to and from Viña del Mar, take a taxi or, better yet, ride
the Merval, a commuter train that runs every 20 minutes from the
Estación Puerto (next to Valparaíso's visitor's
center) and costs 35¢.
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