| Customs
House (Aduana)
 The
grand, colonial American-style building built in 1854 and located
at the north of town at Plaza Wheelwright at the end of Cochrane
and Calle Carampangue. It is possible to visit this customs house,
if it intrigues you. To the right you'll find the Ascensor Artillería,
built in 1893 (and it shows); it costs 10¢. The wobbly contraption
is a delight, and it takes visitors to the most panoramic pedestrian
walkway in Valparaíso, Paseo 21 de Mayo. This lovely promenade
has a lookout gazebo from which it is possible to take in the
town's bustling port activity. There's also a tiny cafe. Follow
the walkway until reaching the Museo Naval y Marítimo.
To return, double back and descend via the ascensor, or head down
the walkway that begins at the cafe, and take a left at Calle
Carampangue.
Plaza Victoria/Museo
a Cielo Abierto/La Sebastiana
 (Pablo
Neruda's House)--Plaza Victoria is the prettiest plaza in Valparaíso,
which is why cityfolk come here to stroll, sit, and socialize.
In the late 1880s this plaza was the elegant center of society,
as is evident by the grand trees, trickling fountain, and sculptures
imported from Lima that recall that era's heyday.
From the plaza, head south on Calle Molina to
Alduante for the Open Air Museum,
which features more than 20 murals painted on cement retainer
and building walls along winding streets. The project, inaugurated
in 1992, features murals conceived by well-known Chilean painters
and carried out by students. Begin at the steep stairway at Alduante
Street and turn left at Pasaje Guimera, and left again at the
balcony walkway that leads to Ascensor Espíritu Santo (you
can ride the funicular up and backtrack this route, walking down).
Continue along Calle Rudolph until reaching Calle Ferrari. It's
possible to walk up Ferrari to number 692 and La Sebastiana, Pablo
Neruda's old house, although it's a bit of a hike. Head down Ferrari
all the way to Edwards and Colón. Note that the Open Air
Museum runs through an interesting but grubby, somewhat rough
neighborhood, and for that reason might not appeal to everyone.
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